Preseason Snowplow Inspection

A snowplow is a piece of equipment that, for some, make a profit during the winter months. For that reason, you want to make sure it is in top condition before the first snowfall. If something happens on the first big snowfall, you are sitting, losing money while trying to find parts or get an appointment to get the plow fixed.

Listed are some items to look at when you are doing your preseason inspection.

– Look at all your electrical connections for possible corrosion, missing pins. It’s a good idea to grease them at this time also.

– Check all harnesses for wear marks on the wires. Mice LOVE to chew on these!

– Look at the mounting points for damaged or missing hardware. Check all welds on the mounting hardware and plow components.

– Check all nuts, bolts and fasteners for tightness.

– Check for play in the pivot bolt. These do wear over time.

– Check your cutting edge, trip springs, and other hardware to see if they are worn or are damaged.

– Inspect your lights and check for correct alignment.

– Inspect the hydraulic system for leaks and cracked or damaged hoses.

– Change your hydraulic fluid and filter before every season. Condensation builds inside the reservoir during the off season and can affect your plows performance. Be sure to use a snowplow grade hydraulic fluid as they are formulated to withstand a wide range of operating temperatures. Some Snowdogg filters can be cleaned instead of replacing them. Check your owners manual.

Once you inspect your plow, hook it onto your truck and run through all the functions. If something is not working right, give us a call so we can look at it.

Before you know it, our winter wonderland will look like this and you and your plow will be hard at work!

1217_snow-620x409

 

Advertisements

What snowplow is right for you?

There are many different types of snowplows: straight, V-blade, UTV plow, steel, poly, etc. It can be a little overwhelming if you are not sure what type of plow you need for the work you are doing.

Snowplows

If you want a plow purely for home use, or even to clear a few family members’ or friends’ driveways, a straight blade will be more than sufficient.

hts_image_1

If you own a UTV or ATV, you could consider a snowplow that will work with your vehicle. These are good for personal use at home or at camp, as their plowing capabilities are almost equal to the efficiency of those of a plow for smaller sized pick-up trucks.

impact-utv-v-plow-1

 

If you are looking to plow commercially such as parking lots, long rural driveways or side roads or if you plan on having more than just a few accounts, you may want to consider a V-plow. The multi-position capabilities of V-plow will make plowing snow easier and faster, keeping you moving from one job to the next.

sd_vxf95_web

Straight blades are still a big seller as they are a less costly than a V-blade. However, due to the multi-position capabilities of a V-plow, it is able to direct snow much differently than a straight blade. In the “scoop” position, a V-plow can stack snow in a way that a straight blade simply can’t match. Slicing through snow that has frozen overnight is also vastly easier with a V-plow. While in the “V” position, the plow’s sharp arrowhead configuration cuts through hard snow better than the flat edge of a straight blade, making operation easier on the plow, truck and operator.

Plow Materials 

They all have their strengths and weaknesses.  Of the three, poly is the most slick. Snow will not stick to blade and will slide off the side faster and easier. Poly is also virtually indestructible.  One common misconception is that poly is lighter than steel. In fact, most poly plows are heavier than steel because of the reinforced steel framework that rests behind the poly moldboard.

Stainless steel is corrosion and rust resistant. Consequently, it is more prone to dents and scratches. Any rocks you hit will leave “dings” on the plow. Over time, this may look unsightly and could affect the plows performance.

Mild steel is the industry standard. It has been used to manufacture plows for decades. Steel plows are treated with a zinc powder coating to help prevent rust; however, over time rust will occur. Still, mild steel plows can be relied upon to be durable, rigid, and valuable.

2017 Zinger Z-1 288RR Toyhauler

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0032

This newly redesigned Zinger Z-1 288RR toyhauler is made for play and relaxation. Part of the redesign is a drive on wheel well so you can accommodate 2 side by sides in this RV. A 90″x 76″ spring loaded ramp makes loading and unloading your toys a breeze.

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0037

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0028

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0029

Two 72″ sofas with a fold up table is great for gathering with friends. When it’s time to wind down for the night, these sofas fold out into beds for a few extra guests.

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0030

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0038

The kitchen has a refrigerator, 3 burner stove, microwave, a double bowl sink with plenty of cabinet space. There is also a spacious walk in pantry for canned goods.

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0034

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0035

The bathroom has a 34″ shower, toilet, vanity with sink and storage for linens. The Master bedroom is furnished with a queen bed, decorative bedspread and bed side wardrobes.

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0031

Tom's Auto Service Titusville PA Zinger Z-1 Toyhauler_0036

PA State Inspections

If you live in the state of Pennsylvania, you know that vehicles, RVs and trailers (over 3,000 pounds) are required to be inspected annually. There is a semi annual inspection for certain vehicles and the State has recently changed some of those requirements.

The old requirement was any vehicle with a registered gross weight in excess of 17,000 pounds was to have a semi annual inspection. Effective February 2, 2017, the requirement has been changed to those vehicles having an annual inspection.

The exemption to this ruling is school vans, buses and farm vehicles, these are still required to be inspected semi annually.

If you have any questions as to what inspection your vehicle needs, please feel free to contact us.

 

 

RV Set Up Checklist

Camping season is almost here!! As excited as everyone is to get out and enjoy the outdoors, you still have to get the camper set up before you can start relaxing. This checklist is a guideline so you don’t forget anything.

qS3uBW.jpg

  • Conduct a site survey. Identify where all campground connections are and where you want the RV located to have access to all connections. Take into consideration where slides will be and if there is room to put the awning out. Make sure there are no low hanging branches or other obstacles that will interfere with the RV.
  • Determine if you need to back in or if it is a pull through site. Position the RV on the site and double-check all clearances and access to hook ups.
  • Disconnect from the tow vehicle.
  • Level RV lengthwise. Use tongue or leveling jacks to raise or lower front.
  • Put stabilizer jacks down with enough tension to minimize RV movement. Do not attempt to lift a portion of the RV with the stabilizer jacks.
  • Check to see if RV is level in both directions.
  • Chock wheels.
  • Put slides out if they won’t interfere with making basic hook ups. Have someone watch for clearance and obstacles in the slides path.
  • Test the campground electricity voltage and polarity with a voltmeter prior to plugging the unit in.
  • Pull enough power cord from the compartment to reach the campground electrical connection. Plug into the receptacle that matches the amperage requirements of your RV. Use electrical adapters as required. Use a surge protector if you have one. If at all possible try to avoid using an extension cord. Some campgrounds have a circuit breaker in the box that must be turned on to allow electricity to the RV.
  • Check the RV to make sure electricity is working. If you have a plug in volt meter plug it into a wall outlet so you can monitor campground voltage during your stay. Any readings below 105 volts or above 135 volts can be dangerous to your appliances and electronic equipment.
  • Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode.
  • If you have a water pressure regulator hook it up to the campground water supply.
  • If you have an exterior water filter hook it up to the city water inlet on the RV. If you don’t use a filter attach a 90-degree elbow to the city water inlet to prevent the hose from kinking.
  • Attach one end of your potable RV drinking hose (white hose) to the campground water supply and the other end to the city water inlet on the RV.
  • Turn the water on and check for any leaks. Make sure you have water coming into the RV.
  • When you are hooked up to a city water supply do not use the 12-volt water pump. Only use this when you don’t have an external water supply and need to draw water from the fresh water tank.
  • Wearing gloves, remove the cap from the sewer hose valve and attach the sewer hose to the sewer drain outlet. Be sure to turn it so the locking tabs securely lock in place. Place the sewer hose seal in the campground sewer connection. Attach the other end of the sewer hose in the seal. Be sure and get a good seal and connection.
  • If you have a sewer hose support set it up now allowing a slope from the RV down to the sewer connection to assist in dumping the tanks.
  • If you’re going to be at the campground for a couple of days or more you can slightly open the gray water tank knife valve to allow sink and shower water to drain directly into the sewer. It is the smaller of the two valves. If you’re only there for the night leave it closed.
  • NEVER leave the black tank valve open (the larger valve). You only open the black tank valve when dumping the tank. When the black tank is nearly full it’s time to dump it. Dumping the black tank before its near full can cause problems. You will want plenty of water in the gray tank at this time to help flush the sewer hose out. To dump tanks pull the black tank valve all the way out. Let it drain completely then close the valve. Now open the gray tank valve and allow it to drain completely and flush the sewer hose out at the same time. Close the valve. Treat the black tank with holding tank chemicals every time you dump it.
  • Turn the main LP gas supply valve on at the tank or bottles.
  • If you want hot water at this time be sure that the water heater tank is full of water before you light it. If your water heater has a bypass kit on it make sure that it is not in the bypass mode. Open a hot water faucet and when you get a steady flow of water (no air) the water heater tank is full and you can light the water heater. Follow the instructions for the type of water heater you have. There may also be an electric mode on the water heater. It will take a little longer to heat the water but it will conserve your LP gas.
  • Connect your TV coax cable from the RV to the cable connection.  If you have cable, do not use the antenna booster.
  • If they don’t offer cable raise the TV antenna on the RV. Turn the TV and the power booster on. Pull down on the antenna base plate and rotate the antenna until you get the best reception.

Now get out and enjoy the outdoors!